There are 2 x controllers depending on year purchased, the Carel ECO controller and Danfoss ECO controller, they both have basic error codes.

CAREL (All prior to Mid 2017)
“E0” cabinet probe/sensor fault.


“E1” evaporator probe/sensor fault


“dF” alternate flash with cabinet probe/sensor temperature whilst in defrost

“dor" door open timeout. Turn unit off and on, *this should not show on later models as this function has been disabled.
**Click here to Download Instructions;
GSP - HOW TO CLEAR DOR ERROR.pdf

“E3” refrigerant system failure alarm can be many things from faulty fan to loss of gas.

“EnS“ alternating to cabinet probe temp, unit is in "Energy Saving Mode".
To take out of energy saving mode press and hold the 'ES ' button for 5 seconds.

The Danfoss codes are at this link (Late 2017 Onwards);
GSP-NEW-DANFOSS-ERROR-CODES-2018.pdf

A few things can cause this to happen.
1. The unit is not level, and the evaporator water is not travelling to the drain properly. It is fine to have the 'front' of the fridge higher than rear (up to 5mm), so try extending the 2 x front feet a little.

2. The drain is blocked or 'frozen'. This can happen for different reasons, the drain hole is located behind the rear inner wall in fridge so you don't have eye contact etc. which makes it hard to diagnose. The easiest way to see if blocked is to pull unit out and remove rear bottom cover, this will give you access to the drip tray. A small pipe should be promiment there, grab it and 'blow' air strongly to see if it is obstructed etc. To check if it's frozen over you need to remove the inside rear wall, which means you need to fully empty the fridge, take out shelves and runners (long bits that hold shelves) and remove rear wall.

Still having problems please fill out below and we will look at more options.

In 65-75% humidity or more unit will start to form 'fog' and then 'water' on outside of glass door, this is normal is glass door fridge operation, and cannot be controlled.

These Rhino units have special 'Double Layered LOW E' Glass which allows them to be much more resilient to condensation forming, whereas normal glass would condensate at 50% RH.

The only way to stop this happening is to have a unit with 'heated glass', see model SG1R-HD, SG1L-HD, EX108 and the Rhino ENVY series (ENV1R-SS, ENV1L-SS, ENV2H-SS, ENV3H-SS).

The LED lights generally last 100,000hrs so if light is 'not' coming on it will be 99% of the time be the transformer that is faulty, this is the power supply to the LED light.
*Remember light on/off switch is on the actual electronic controller.

Over time and with heavier 'usage' than normal domestic use, the door can eventually 'drop' a little due to hinge movement. The door is fully adjustable with this hinge so it can be fixed. The bottom hinge is the one that you need to access, the fridge is best to be emptied and placed 'on its back' to do this, as you need to access underneath the unit to remove the bottom grill. Be careful with the self-closing function as it has a little pressure on the hinge, if you undo all screws it is difficult to put back, you only need to loosen the screws in order to reposition the door by adjusting hinge.

If you have no chilling, then follow this process before arranging technician or warranty claim.
The more information you can provide the quicker we can diagnose and get you back up and running.

-Check that all normal things are going (inner fan, rear fan, compressor, controller)

-Check for icing up inside unit on rear wall around the area where air ventilating slots are, and just above these
*If the unit has NO ice, NO errors on display, and all components are running (inner fan, rear fan, compressor) then there more than likely will be a gas issue or a blockage in the refrigeration system, a technician is then needed. Start the process by filling in form at this link:
https://www.bar-fridges-australia.com.au/making-a-warranty-claim.html

-Check for 'error' codes on the LED display (see Q1 with list of error codes)
The most common error code is E3 and is related to a refrigerant alarm, that can be many things. To start first try to turn the unit OFF at the power and then back ON, this could clear any problem/bug the Carel Controller may think is going on. It has a lot of safety mechanisms in order to protect the fridge with the slightest hint of a problem.
If the E3 returns again, usually within 6 hrs, then there is a problem.

These are the basic codes.
“E0” cabinet probe/sensor fault.


“E1” evaporator probe/sensor fault


“dF” alternate flash with cabinet probe/sensor temperature whilst in defrost

“dor" door open timeout. Turn unit off and on, *this should not show on later models as this function has been disabled

“E3” refrigerant system failure alarm can be many things from faulty fan to loss of gas.


“EnS“ alternating to cabinet probe temp, unit is in "Energy Saving Mode".
To take out of energy saving mode press and hold the 'ES ' button for 5 seconds.

This can be a number of things;
1. Inner fan has stopped working, this will cause the unit to only chill to about 8-15oC, and in most cases it will cause the 'evaporator' (which is located behind inner rear wall) to ice up.

2. If the area explained above near slots in rear inner wall is iced up but the fan is 'still working', defrost unit overnight and try to run again. If it ices up the following day you may have a controller problem (which causes the compressor to not turn off, again icing unit up), if that is the case the controller may need replacing, the main relay will have blown/burnt out. When an evaporator is iced up the airflow stops and hence cooling stops.

3. Fan at rear underneath section has stopped working, this will cause compressor to get too hot and go out on 'safety overload' before it has a chance to get to 'set' temperature, again, unit will only get to about 8-15oC, depending on environment, so to be clear unit will be running and will still be under the ambient, it just won't be at set temperature.

4. Check you havn't placed product too close to rear inner wall, it needs about 2cm gap between the wall and the product.

5. Ensure you have plenty of airflow by having small 2mm gaps between bottles and cans.

6. Check rear condenser (this is the part in bottom rear section that looks like a radiator) hasn't blocked up with particles (dust, hair, leaves, 'mittens' or 'fido's hair), as this strangles the operation of cooling and unit will only get to about 10oC.

7. Worse case scenario is unit is low on gas, a technician is needed to diagnose this.

Remember if putting a full HOT load in the fridge it can take 12hours to fully chill properly.

*You 100% cannot have sunlight on the glass either, in less than 30min sunlight can make inner temperature of a fridge 65oC!

The most common error code is E3 and is related to a refrigerant alarm, means unit will stop completely, this can be many things. To start first try to turn the unit OFF at the power and then back ON, this could clear any problem/bug the Carel Controller may think is going on. It has a lot of safety mechanisms in order to protect the fridge with the slightest hint of a problem.
If the E3 returns again, usually within 6 hrs, then there is a problem.

These are the basic codes.
“E0” cabinet probe/sensor fault.

“E1” evaporator probe/sensor fault

“dF” alternate flash with cabinet probe/sensor temperature whilst in defrost

“dor" door open timeout. Turn unit off and on, *this should not show on later models as this function has been disabled

“E3” refrigerant system failure alarm can be many things from faulty fan to loss of gas.

“EnS“ alternating to cabinet probe temp, unit is in "Energy Saving Mode".
To take out of energy saving mode press and hold the 'ES ' button for 5 seconds.

Warranty claim form here;
https://www.bar-fridges-australia.com.au/making-a-warranty-claim.html

The door itself has a special inner ''rod" that gives it the spring to close. Although this part doesn't come under any warranty it may fail after 1-3years of outdoor use, especially near ocean area's. We have spare parts so it can be rectified no problems, and can be fitted without technician or voiding warranty.

If the fridge has suddenly become noisy, try to ascertain 'where exactly' the noise is coming from, these are possible problems;
1. A fan has failed, check inner fan? check rear fan? If a bearing has gone these will run really loud
2. The main compressor, if faulty it will make a constant rattling/clunking sound?
3. A fan maybe hitting on something or a bracket could be loose that holds fan, check this first
4. A screw may have come loose somewhere inside or at rear of fridge, this can make a vibrating sound during cooling cycle.