If ice is building up in the area under fan on rear inner wall it can be caused by a number of things. It also can make fan suddenly become noisy as it starts to hit on the actual ice.

1. Inner fan has stopped working, check the fan is going

2. Unit defrost cycle is not working - The units currently have a defrost programmed into them, so that after 5 hours of compressor operation the unit will stop for 20 minutes. 

3. You have unit set too low and are not using it enough for normal operation to allow defrost to take place. So basically, if you set at 0-2oC and don't used unit for a while (say 2weeks), then it has a chance to slowly build up ice on evaporator. Over time this will slowly get bigger and eventually will cause trouble. To fix this you simply turn off for 6hrs and restart, remembering that unit is defrosting, and you may get excess water overflow from the drain underneath, so place some towels down etc. If you are constantly going to have long periods of non-usage then it is recommended to alter the defrost parameters to be more frequent, call u to arrange this. 

Led Controller: The led display goes up/down, this is the normal operation of every fridge in the world, fridges 'cycle'  'on and off' to help protect compressor, defrost ice and to keep the set temperature stable. These units have a 'variance of 4oC' in the cycle, so if you SET your fridge at 2oC, it means that compressor goes OFF at 2oC, then back ON at 6C, that is the 4oC differential. During this time, it DOES NOT mean your drinks go from 2-6, liquid takes a lot longer to rise in temp than air. So just be governed by the temperature of your drinks, NOT what is on the display. A setting of 2oC will generally keep drinks at 3-4oC.

Defrost: There is also a defrost cycle programmed into the unit (to remove ice from evaporator), which is governed by the run time of compressor, then by a stop time, so with these we run a 6hr run time before a 15minute stop time, so during this defrost stop time the display can reach 10-12oC, again this is NOT the temperature of your drinks. Defrost is a very important part of the fridge operation.

Ice Up: If you notice really unstable temperature and fluctuations, please check the INNER rear wall and see if you can see any buildup of ICE. If ice has built up, turn off for 6hours and restart, if problem happens again, please contact us by filling in form at this link following or the form below.
https://www.bar-fridges-australia.com.au/making-a-warranty-claim.html

My unit runs but isn't chilling at all!
ANSWER

If your unit turns ON, and inner fan, underneath fan and compressor are running then you may have gas problem.
*Note: This is for units that that fridge temp is same as ambient (room), and isnt coming down at all.

1. You can 'physically' check the fans and compressor are running.

2. Check for an error on display, 

 a) Unit has not reached SET temp after about 3hrs operating (200minutes). In this case something is wrong like ice buildup, door open or simply unit has lost its gas charge. If gas charge is lost technician is needed, start process by contacting us below.

 b) A relay in controller that controls the compressor has failed. This means that unit will turn ON, but compressor cannot turn OFF, so eventually and quite quickly unit will go below ZERO and ice up. To test is this is the cause, turn off overnight and back ON next day, watch the display drop and see if it turns OFF when it reaches your desired temp.

c) A faulty fan still MAY cause this error, as unit will not be able to get the SET temp, so check this also.

3. Blocked drier - this isn't that common, but can cause unit to stop completely, to help check this is you access rear area near the compressor, you can grab hold of drier, if it's red hot it is blocked.

The actual temperature inside is higher than what is on the display?

The units are controlled by a sensor located in the cabinet, so the display on the screen compared to your OWN thermometer can actually vary depending on the position you place it within the fridge, the location of the cabinet sensor and how your fridge is filled with product.

Good things to know are;
1. The difference between TOP section and BOTTOM section can be about 2oC, with bottom usually the coldest. So, setting at 2oC means when sensor 'feels' 2oC it turns unit off, at this point inside fridge that area will be 2oC but higher positions in fridge will be 3 or 4.

2. For more 'even' temperature you should keep the area 'in front of GRILL' on the inner back wall about 5cm free from product, allow the air to blow out the bottom and have small spaces between the product to allow air to flow to all areas of fridge.

3. Again check for ice on the rear inner wall, if evaporator has iced up you lose air flow and unit won't run at set temperature.
*Try resetting the controller parameters in case the unit wasn't done correct, see link;
https://www.bar-fridges-australia.com.au/schmick-yc-range-parameter-change-document.html

If your unit still 'cools', but isn't quite getting to the SET temperature then you need to check following things.

-Check inner fan is going? - If this fan isn't going it will cause unit to ice up and airflow will be impeded, making unit only run at about 10oC or more.

-Check there is no ice build up of rear wall just under fan area? - Again this could be caused by faulty fan, but also could be caused by settings on controller. Some area's may need more defrost time than others to dispurse the ice build up effectively (higher humidity causes more ice). Try turning off for 6hrs and restarting, if it happens again contact us below to start process of rectifying.
*Try resetting the factory parameters at this link;
https://www.bar-fridges-australia.com.au/schmick-yc-range-parameter-change-document.html

-If your unit starts with Serial Number YC1611  (App. Dec16) and you have it located in higher ambient temps than 25oC then we need to do a change to the air flow setup. Please contact us below if this is the case, because it can be rectified.

-Check underneath fan is working? - If this fan isn't going it will cause the compressor to stop  with safety overload, because of excess heat, the operation will be impeded, making unit only run at about 10oC or more.

-Check if there is ice or excess build up of water at rear around piping on compressor - This can happen is the unit has a gas problem and technician is needed.

-Check that the condenser (big black cage like black piping part near compresser at rear) hasn't blocked up with dust and particles, cleaning this periodically is important, a blocked condenser will cause compressor to get too hot and stop with safety overload, unit will not chill properly.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working it could be that the 'transformer' that actually runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed. 

Unit has all of a sudden become noisy

ANSWER

First ascertain exactly where the noise is coming from.
1. Inner fan? - With inner fan there are a few ways it can become noisy;
   a) Fan is faulty, and bearing has failed, this will make a very loud noise, new fan required
   b) The unit has iced up on evaporator, causing fan to hit ice, this will eventually strangle fan and it will fail
   c) Something may have come loose near fan, like screws that hold it in or a wire has made its way to get touched by blade

2. Rear fan?
   a) Fan is faulty, and bearing has failed, this will make a very loud noise, new fan required
   b) Something may have come loose near fan, like screws that hold it in or a wire has made its way to get touched by blade

3. Compressor? - This is the main working motor of unit and starts and stops 6-8 times an hour. If uneven this could make a noise during running. Check the bolts that hold it in place havn't come loose.

4. Foreign Rattle - With fridges the actual piping has liquid and gas running through it 100% of the time, this can cause piping to vibrate during operation, if the piping is close to another part of the fridge it could make a sound if it touches another part.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working it could be that the transformer that actually runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed. 

How do I fit white lights into my fridge?
ANSWER

We carry all the parts of our fridges.  Blue and white lights are available for these fridges.

-Check ventilation around the fridge. You need 10mm at sides and top with 50mm at the rear. 

-The unit cannot have another ‘door’ in front of the fridge door, this is incorrect installation and voids warranty

-The unit must be 100% away from sunlight and out of the weather, this is incorrect installation and voids warranty

 -Check compressor definitely comes ON

 -Check inner fan is going and that there is NO ice build up on the inner rear wall

Check if you can feel a slight breeze coming out of grill at the front when the compressor is on.

Check the temperature that you have the fridge set on.  If the fridge is set on 2, it will cycle between 2 - 6 and keep your drinks around 4 degrees Celcius.

With the door, sometimes it can 'drop' slightly, when this happens it will catch on the bottom panel. This is easy to adjust by either re doing the hinge screws tight or checking the actual black grill panel to move it down slightly.
If you need assistance please email us below for a call back

In 55-60% humidity or more you will start to form fog and then water on outside of glass door, this is normal is glass door fridge operation. A lot depends on the type of glass, if you have special LOW E glass it helps prevent up to about 75% and heated glass gets you to 100%.

Click below for information on condensation.
Link;
https://www.bar-fridges-australia.com.au/the-facts-about-condensation-on-glass-doors-of-bar-fridges.html

The inner fan may have developed faulty bearings and if this happens the noise will be very loud, like a plane landing in your loungeroom. You need to replace the fan.

Another reason is the fan blade itself may have 'moved' on its axis or is slightly out of position, it maybe touching the fan bracket, so slightly moving the fan or bracket to different position can be an easy fix. If you are looking at this while unit is running remember to be careful as the connections do contain 240V.

Is there noise coming from under unit?

Please contact our Service department on 03 5337 6399.

If one of the fans has failed (inner and underneath) then the unit will just not quite get to temp, usually will sit about 8-12oC. So check both fans.

*Check your condenser under unit to make sure it hasn't blocked up with dust and particles. This is the part is a big black wire cage, and it's important to be clean.

*Is door sealing properly? A gap in sealing can cause unit to ice up on rear wall and stop air flow, causing it to not quite cool

Unit has stopped cooling completely
ANSWER

If unit has stopped cooling completely, meaning fridge only sits at 'room temperature' then you need to check these main things.
1. Inner fan still going?
2. Bottom fan and compressor still going?
*If all above going and unit has no cooling then unit has gas problem. Tech required. Fill out form at this link to get service, whether you are in or our of warranty.

https://www.bar-fridges-australia.com.au/making-a-warranty-claim.html

Unit has stopped cooling or is not cooling enough

-Check ventilation around the fridge. You need 40mm at sides and top with 150mm at the rear. 

-The unit cannot have another ‘door’ in front of the fridge door, this is incorrect installation and voids warranty

-The unit must be 100% away from sunlight and out of the weather, this is incorrect installation and voids warranty

 -Check compressor definitely comes ON

 -Check inner fan is going and that there is NO ice buildup on the inner rear wall

Check if you can feel a slight breeze coming out of grill at the front when the compressor is on.

Check the temperature that you have the fridge set on.  If the fridge is set on 2, it will cycle between 2 - 6 and keep your drinks around 4 degrees Celsius.